1.1 Preparation

Prepare a clean desk and some small boxes to unzip the package. Take a picture of the kit contents in case you lose something later.

1.2 Tools and accessories

Getting started

To keep these instructions simple to use, We are focusing on the assembling rather than an in-depth explanation.

The small but mighty Bittle has these amazing features:

• Support Petoi Coding Blocks(block-based Scratch-like), C++, and Python.

• Free and (block-based Scratch-like) curriculums.

• Equipped with NyBoard, a high-performance Arduino Uno-compatible development board supporting additional modules for robotics/AI/IoT applications.

If you have specific questions on “why” rather than “how”, please post on our forum at or write to .

You can support us by shopping at . Our social media (Instagram/Twitter/Facebook/GitHub) account is @PetoiCamp. Share your build by tagging #bittle #petoi #opencat so that we can repost for you!

There are two methods to configure NyBoard and BiBoard:

• The simplest method is to use the Petoi Desktop App. No programming is involved. You can play with some preset modes.

• If you have some programming experience, you can use the Arduino IDE. You will be able to modify the open-source codes for your new projects.

If you are using BiBoard, please refer to this Arduino configuration instruction.

🔬It will make another textbook.

The controlling framework behind Bittle is OpenCat, which I've been developing for a while. You can read more stories from my posts on Hackster.io.

It's too much work for now 🤷🏻‍♂️ but you are welcome to discuss it with me on the forum or through email. For example, there are code reviews on the forum. I will keep the code compatible with future OpenCat models, and even your own DIY robots! Hopefully, the documentation will be completed during the process.

Please refer to the in the Doc center.

There are two ways to create new skills for Bittle:

• Use the Skill Composer in the desktop app

• Write Arduino code

If you are a robotics professional, this user-generated may be useful to set up a scientific simulation.

Servo wiring

Connect the wires of servos to the NyBoard servo pins as below. They follow a circular symmetry. Notice the skipped indexes between the head and leg servos (1~7). They are reserved for our future robots with more joints.

Wire direction

Please ensure the black wire (or the darkest wire - ground wire) is closest to the board.

Bottom view:

Insert the infrared receiver under the back plate so the sensor can be exposed to the outside.

Ensure the wires go into the body, bypass the columns, and plug into the servo pins. Arrange the wires so they don't get between the servo plugs and the body frame. NyBoard should fit flat on the four standoffs. (It is OK for the board to have a minor bend caused by the chassis.) Use four M2x8 self-tapping screws to fix the NyBoard.

Completed:

Ensure all the servos are connected to the correct sockets on the circuit board in the proper orientation.

Servo wiring principle

If the output shaft of your servo has a metal gear, use the M2x4 flathead screw to lock the legs/head.

If the output shaft of your servo has a plastic gear, use the M2x6 self-tapping screw (same as the one to lock the servos) to lock the legs/head.

7.1 Head

To lock in the head, use a screw to lock the servo shaft and the servo arm from the bottom side of the chassis.

7.2 Limbs(upper and lower legs)

Use the screws to lock all the limbs.

7.3 Wire shield

There’re two snaps on both sides of the wire shield. Their relative height is different.

Flatten the wire of the lower leg to remove any coils. Then snap the wire shield to the upper leg.

The shield's edge should be parallel to the surface of the upper leg.

You may need to recalibrate if more or less weight is put on Bittle or the center of mass has been changed.

The picture below shows the wrong installation configuration.

7.4 Body cover and tail

The 6-pin female socket is used for connecting the programmer and communication dongles. Carefully bend it forward in a smooth arc if you are not going to attach a Raspberry Pi.

Attach the tail to the pin on the cover.

Snap the cover from one side of the body. Organize the wires so that they don't get stuck between the cover and the body. Then push the cover down to the other side of the body. You should hear a clear snap sound.

See the Getting Started guide.

There are 4 methods for users without any programming experience to control Bittle:

• Use the IR Remote Controller.

• Use .

• Use .

• Use .

If you have some programming experience or want to explore more advanced features, you can try the following methods:

• Use .

• Use .

• Use .

• Use .

Servo wiring

BiBoard V1(for Bittle X V2), Please check this page to .

Although the BiBoard V1 has only 12 pins, the joint index numbers are configured in the same order as the NyBoard. The connection between the joint servo and the pin is shown in the figure below：

Servo wiring

BiBoard V0(for Bittle X), Please check this page to .

Although BiBoard V0 has only 12 pins, the joint index numbers are configured in the same order as NyBoard. The connection between the joint servo and the pin is shown in the figure below：

2.1 Pre-assembled Bittle

Preparations

1. all the servos are connected to the correct sockets on the board in the correct orientation

2. don't attach the legs to the servos.

3.1 Start with the Unassembled Kit

You can take a glance at this assembling animation for Bittle.

Here's a more detailed hands-on tutorial on building Bittle from the kit.

3.2 Step-by-step Instruction

You can finish the following parts then put them together in later chapters.

• Neck

• Body

• Upper leg

• Lower leg

3.2.1 Neck

Materials：

• Neck x 1

• Servo arm x 1

• M2x8 sharp-end self-tapping screws x 2

Put the servo arm in the neck part like the figure below. The teeth of the servo arm should face upward.

Screw two M2x8 self-tapping screws beside both sides of the servo arm. Don't over tighten the screws.

Finished:

3.2.2 Body

Materials:

• Assembled neck x 1

• Chasis x 1

• Front and back plate x 2

• Side shoulder x 2

Recognize the front and back side of the chassis. The location of the two large holes along the center track makes a difference. In our standard configuration, we define the holes to be shifted towards the tail. You can also find a small mark "A1" in the front of the chassis.

Push the back tip of the assembled neck into the slot of the chassis. Then press down the front hook until you hear a snap sound.

Insert the chassis into one of the side shoulders.

Insert the front or back plate into the side shoulder. There are three tenons on each side of the plate. Insert the two front tenons as one group for better alignment.

Insert both the front and back plates.

Plug the other side shoulder to complete the body. Again pay attention to the alignment of the tenons of the front and back plates.

Finished:

3.2.3 Upper leg

It's a little hard to explain well with words. Please refer to the assembling . It requires more skill than force. There's a discussing installing springs with various tools.

3.2.4 Lower leg

Materials:

• P1S servo with long cable x 4

• Lower leg piece x4

• M2x8 self-tapping screw x 8

Assemble the right leg. Insert the servo into the window. Watch the tutorial video to see the correct direction to fold the wire. The notch on the internal edge is designed to let the wire go through. Use two M2x8 screws to fix the servo onto the lower leg.

The left leg is opposite to the right leg. However, the front and back legs are identical. So you should make two pairs of legs with opposite configurations.

3.2.5 Head

Materials:

• P1S servo with short cable x 1

• Chin x 1

• Skull x 1

• M2x8 self-tapping screw x 2

Put the servo in the chin as shown in the figure. Pay attention to the direction of the servo's wire. After that, install two M2x8 self-tapping screws.

Insert the skull into the chin so that it can rotate and bite on small gadgets. I recommend you apply some lubricant to the contact points between the skull and chin.

3.2.6 Shoulder servo

Materials:

• P1S servo with short cable x 4

• M2x8 self-tapping screws x 8

• Head (assembled)

• Body (assembled)

Put the head, body, servos, and lower legs like the figure below. Insert the short servo wires through the servo slots on the side shoulders. Pay attention to the direction of the servos carefully and place them in the correct configuration.

Side view:

Top view:

You also need to insert the wire of the head servo into the body.

After confirming all the components ' directions, put the short wire servos into the side shoulders. Pay attention to the directions of the shoulder servos’ output shaft. The long wires of the lower leg servos should be inserted into the opening between the shoulder servo and the shoulder window. Use two M2x8 self-tapping screws to fix each should servo.

Repeat the above assembly for the hip servos.

3.2.7 Battery

Insert the battery plug into the power socket under the body:

Place the battery in the direction shown in the figure below, aligning with the mounting holes:

Snap in the battery:

While holding down the battery, push it towards the head, and arrange the power cable after the battery snaps into place, as shown in the following figure:

Long-press the button on the battery for more than 3 seconds. If the red light on the battery is on, please charge it until the green light on the battery turns solid before using it. The power supply starts to supply power, and the yellow and blue LEDs on the NyBoard light up at the same time.